Choosing your corner of the island.

Self-catering is the island's strength — Victorian apartments in Rothesay, estate and farm cottages elsewhere — and it usually works out better value than hotels for stays of three nights or more. Hotels and guesthouses cluster in Rothesay and Port Bannatyne, with a few country options inland and to the south.

For camping, there is a caravan and camping site on the island as well as Scotland's right of responsible wild camping under the Scottish Outdoor Access Code: small tents, high ground away from farmland and houses, no fires, leave nothing. Motorhomes should use formal sites and be careful of the single-track west-coast lanes.

Bute has a small bed stock and a handful of weekends when all of it sells out. Book months ahead for the Bute Highland Games in August, Bute Fest in July, the Round Bute Race in June, and any bank holiday weekend in summer.

May, June and September are the sweet spot: long light, thinner crowds, and everything open. Winter is genuinely lovely and very quiet, but check that your accommodation, and the restaurant you were counting on, is open before you travel.

Whenever you come, book the car ferry in advance if you are bringing a vehicle in summer — see our guide to getting here for both crossings.